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102 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Textile Industry |
-Fiber manufacturer
-Yarn spinners -Fabric manufacturer Converters: -Dyers -Printers -Finishers |
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Look at chart for Inside Vs. Outside Shops |
Terms: •FullPackage Supplier – provides sourcing, fabric, pattern, cut,sew and finish •CMT– requiresthe product developer to take ownership of fabric •Jobber –acts as a middleman between manufacturers& retailers – (purchases excess goods & sells to retailers) •FOB – contractoris responsible (owns) until goods are loaded onto transporting vehicle •LandedCost – includes total production costs +shipping and duty charges |
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Vertical Integration |
-Significantly impacts a firm’s competition advantage in getting the right product to market at the right time and the right price
-When the SAME firm is responsible for multiple steps in the production or marketing of an apparel PRODUCT |
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Horizontal Integration |
Prioritizes the acquisition or licensing of companies or brands that make or sell similar products to expand market penetration and reduce competition.
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Branded Apparel |
Created under a label and sold at wholesale for distribution to retailers who also carry other brands.
Can also be sold through the brand’s own specialty store, outlet store or online |
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Private Label |
Products developed for exclusive distribution by a retailer – using their proprietary brand = Macy’s INC.OR* Store brands that offer products exclusively available in their stores:
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Examples of Retailers |
Macys, Saks 5th avenue, nordstrom, belk |
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Whats different with retailers today? |
U.S. retailers suffer as shoppers go online |
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International Trade |
The exchange of goods between nations and all the issues associated with that exchange
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Global Trade |
Import - to buy goods from another countryExport - to sell goods to another country
•Exporttrading companies - (ETCs)Serveas intermediaries between the producers ofthe goods and the buyer ofthe goods in the other countries |
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Tariff - a tax on imported goods
Quota - an annual limit on the volume of a product that may be imported Embargo – prohibition of importing a product |
Know Definitions |
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Sourcing |
Sourcing production outside of the United States may be called –
-Offshore production -Chapter 98 production -Outsourcing |
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World Trade Organization |
= (WTO)
Replaced General Agreement on Tariffs ad Trade (GATT) and Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC) Fundamental of WTO - Promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriersEqualization of trade among countries |
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Quality is built from conception |
-Fabrics
-Findings -Country of Origin -Fit -Finishing |
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Look at slide 24 for |
week 1 |
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Quality to cost Ratio |
How much you are willing to pay to have quality - measured against what they will give up in order to have a lower price
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2 Dimensions of Product Quality |
Physical Features and Performance Features |
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What are the regulations of Apparel Labeling? |
-Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
-Wool Products Labeling Act -Fur Products Labeling Act -Silk Labeling RegulationCare -Labeling RuleGuide for select Leather & Imitation Leather Products -Feather and Down Product |
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Consumer Product Safety Commission |
CPSC - Responsible for enforcing Flammable Fabrics Act
-Products found in violation of the law may be confiscated and destroyed -All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined by a standard test method |
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RN Number |
RN stands for Registered Identification Number
Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name |
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Care Labeling Rule |
-Must state reasonable instructions about regular care
- Must be permanently legible and permanently attached |
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International Care Labels |
1.Washtub
2. triangle 3. Square 4. Iron 5.Circle |
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What are the physical features of fabric? |
-Fiber
-Yarn -Fabric structure -Color -Applied design - Hand |
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Fabric Performance- the sum of its parts |
Durability, Appearance, Comfort |
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Manufactured fiber |
-Regenerated cellulosic
-Synthetics -Miscellaneous |
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Natural Fibers |
-Protein fibers
-Cellulosic fibers |
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Fiber Size |
greatly affects the HAND of the fabric
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Denier |
a direct system; the larger the #, the larger the fiber
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Tex |
For international use; based on metric system
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what are the three simple weave types? |
Plain, Twill, Satin |
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Look at book for Knits and Wovens!!!!** |
***** |
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Dyeing and Printing |
add color to undyed fabrics,called greige goods(pronouced “gray goods”)
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Dyestuffs or dyes |
are the liquid colorantsused to color fabrics.
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Dye Applications |
1. Fiber dyeing
-Solution dyeingor Dope dyeing 2. Yarn dyed 3. Piece dyed 4. Garment dyeing |
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Printing |
The application of designs to the fabric using dyes or pigments
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Fabric Performance |
AESTHETIC & FUNCTIONAL performance of the end-product is achieved with selecting the correct fabric and includes:
-Garment design -Intended use of garment -Season of the year -Fashion trends -Consumer preferences -Cost limitations -Target market profile |
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Luster, Opacity, Hand |
Transparent, Shiny look |
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Effects of Hand |
drapability/flexibility – pliable/limp/fluid to firm/stiff/crispcompressibility - soft to hardextensibility or ease of stretching – stretchy to nonstretchyresilience – springy/alive to limpdensity – compact to loose/opensurface contour/texture - rough/coarse to smoothsurface friction/texture – harsh to slipperythermal character - cool to warm
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Functional Performance of Fabric |
1.DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
2.APPEARANCE 3.RETENTION 4.COMFORT 5.EASE OF CARE 6.SAFETY 7.STRENGTH 8.ABRASION 9.RESISTANCE 10.RESISTANCE TO DEGRADATION |
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Dimensional Stability |
Relates to the ability to neither STRETCH nor SHRINK
Torque or skewness = fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other rather than lying at right angles to the selvage |
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Comfort is |
Physiological & Psychological
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Look up four point grading system of the ASQ and the most common method to dye in localized area to produce patterns |
LOOK IT UP |
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Know the Body Shapes Slide! refer to study guid |
**** |
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Size |
refers to a system that suggests to the consumer the suitability of a garment for their body dimensions
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Sizing |
the classifications of the dimensions of garments
•Sizingis the number one complaint for apparel |
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Ease |
Ease- The difference between the body measurements of the intended wearer and the measurements of the clothing
Design Ease- The amount added to the body measurements plus the functional ease to make the garment look and function as desired Functional Ease- Also known as wearing ease, have to be able to move and function. |
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Vanity Sizing look in book* |
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Metric and Sizing |
United States is the only country in the world that does not use the metric system.
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What is the ISO? |
The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) has developed a set of standards for sizing of garments.
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Look at slide on meaurements |
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Special Sizes |
Petites, Plus, Tall |
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Types of mens suits |
Continental- Contemporary
Traditional- Classic Athletic- Muscular |
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What are the two measurements for mens pants? |
Waist and Inseam |
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What is the rise? |
-measurement top of crotch to top of waist -Regular or Short
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5 elements of Fit |
Grain- length wise runs parallel to height
Ease- The amount of difference between the body measurements and the garment Line- Structurally the garment conforms to the body line Set- No unwanted wrinkles Balance- the right and left sides of the body appear to be even |
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Grain |
•Grain reflects the direction of thethreads •Lengthwise run parallel to height andcrosswise perpendicular
Hangs evenly and symmetrically on the body, parallel to the selvage |
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Ease |
Ease is the amount of difference between the body measurements and garment
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what are the three types of ease? |
Functional, Design, and Negative |
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Functional or Wearing Ease |
being able to move, for performance
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Design Ease |
Ease added by the designer to product the desired look, for aesthetic
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Negative Ease |
The garment is smaller than the body
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Line |
The structural lines of the garment conform to the lines of the body
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Form and fit Models |
Fit models are in the mid range or mid size of the consumer base
-Would be a size 8 |
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Grading |
Process of scaling the master size (sample size) of a garment to the range of sizes to be produced
Grade rules: The amounts added or subtracted from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next •Pattern blocks may be graded intodifferent sizes utilizing this grading machine •Automatedpattern grading using Lectra’s Modarispattern-gradingsoftware ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]+++=HHHr����YYYY\\\]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]� |
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what are the two types of grading? |
Circumference and Length |
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Circumference Grading |
-How much the garments are to increase in overall girth from one size to the next
-The girth measurements are typically the most changed from one size to another size, as individuals tend to reflect more differences in girth than in height |
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Length Grading |
•The measurement to be added to the lengthof garment pieces as sizes vary in height
•Critical to development of apparelin petite and tall size ranges |
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Sample Process |
To determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired, sample garments are produced and placed on dress forms and/or models to evaluate the:
-Grain -Set -Line -balance |
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Standards |
1. Very Specific parameters for Quality
2. Materials and findings |
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Perceptual Attributes |
Quality indicators |
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Utilitarian |
-designed to be useful rather than attractive -It Is a fact that US consumers will pay more for items that have an aesthetic value rather than a utilitarian value |
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More on Standards on pgs 87-91 |
Standards are the framework that provide decisions for businesses
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Sizing Specifications |
The trend toward outsourcing production means accurate measurement specifications are vital to ensure the desired size and shape are achieved
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Meaurements |
-Must be clearly communicated on specification sheets for patternmaking and sampling
-Sample garment measurements must be checked against the spec sheet before a garment goes into full production |
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Different types of specifications |
Specifications- includes styling,methods,
Closed specifications- specific requirements for construction techniques Open specifications- fast fashion |
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Technical Flat |
-includes sketch of garment with details & written specifications
-Technical flat is another term for specificationdetailed measurements and specific construction methods |
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Tolerance |
-anallowable variance from our specification
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Costing |
reflects overall quality of what we are developing
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Look up production specs |
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Stitch |
formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam or stitching
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Seam |
a line where two or more fabrics are joined or sewn together
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Stitching |
consists of a series of stitches, used to finish the edge of garment or decorative stitch
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Stitches |
Configurations of interlacing thread executed in specific repeated units
They are used to form rows that produce seams, finish an edge, or generate ornamentation The majority of stitches are made on a lockstitch or chain-stitch machine Commercialstitches in the ASTM system are divided into sixclasses based on complexity, configuration, andthe type of machine that is required to form the stitching A three-digit number identifies each stitch class The first number identifies the class andthe other digits identify a specific stitch type within that class
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Lockstitch Vs. Chainstitch |
-Lockstitchmachinesrely on interlocking threads Usesa bobbin
-Chainstitchmachinesrely on interlooping threadsUsesa looperthread (no bobbin) Lockstitch- flatter and less bulky and more refined The key to lockstitches are balance and tension, usually used for top stitching on better garments Chainstitch- flexibility |
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Extensibility |
Elongation or Stretch |
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ASTM |
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams The BEST AVAILABLE TOOL for identifying stitchesMilitary garments needed standards for seams = apparel industry adopted & uses today. |
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Stitch Class 100 |
A single Thread, it is simple and flexible and economical Advantages: Economical and Blind Stitch Disadvantages: Impression of Low Quality and lack of durability - To easy to unravel for quality apparel |
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Stitch Class 200 |
Extremely expensive if done by hand
The machine version requires special machinery and is of very limited use For decorative and special purpose |
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Stitch Class 300 |
Composed of a needle thread interlocked with a bobbin thread
Threads interlock between the pieces of the fabrics Lock stitches do not unwravel easily, it is very strong Most frequently used stitch in the production of apparel Balanced Tension •Stitch 301 most commonly used stitch, tightest and most secure stitch,used for extensively for better garments Uses the least amount of thread Produces the flattest stitch Gives best hand Allows stitches to blend into the fabric surfaceWidely used to sew seams in woven- fabrics garment |
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Disadvantages to 300 stitches |
-Not very extensible
-Rupture easily if stretched or strained -Can cause more seam pucker -More costly than chain stitches |
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Class 300 Zig Zag Stitch |
Usedto attach elastic to underwear, swimwear, to attach lace
Usedfor very functional garments |
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Class 300 Blindstitches |
Join plies of fabric with stitches that are imperceptible or nearly so from the outside of the fabric
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Class 400 Stitches |
More extensible than lockstitches
Easy to UNRAVEL in case garment needs alterations |
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Advantages of 400 class stitches |
Significantly STRONGER & more DURABLE than 101 stitches
Achieves high production speed Can Cause Seam Puckers |
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100- Simple
200- not used that often, made using special machinery 300- most widely used stitch in the production of apparel 400- Chainstitch , it is prone to ravel |
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Disadvantages of class 400 stitches |
Easiest to unravel, uses more thread |
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Class 500 Over edge stitch |
A multi thread chain stitch, it has the ability to stretch without breaking, thus making it the work horse of the knitwear industry Serged, over cast, merrow,
Pgs 346-350 It requires balanced tension |
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Advantages of the Class 500 Stitch |
Most extensible of all stitch class because of their many interloopings
Works well with knitwear Prevent edges from unraveling Cause little seam pucker Conserves fabric because of narrow seam allowance Reduces labor |
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Disadvantages of Class 500 Stitch |
Prone to seam grin
Cannot be pressed open to reduce bulk Requires more thread Can by uncomfortable |
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Stitch Properties |
Specified as the number of stitches per inch (SPI) May be an indicator of quality
The more SPI = more time and thread = cost SPI: Length, Witdh, Depth Pg 352 read about stitch length Pg 335 read and study about stitch tension Pgs 352-353 read about reinforcement stitches |
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Needle Heating |
-When sewing friction heats the needle, which then fuses or melts the finishes or fibers of the thread or fabric
-Causes fabric damage as a result of the friction of too-fast sewing speeds Thermoplastic = heat sensitive |
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Look at all images !! |
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