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56 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Body modification |
temporary or permanent alterations made to the body (hair color, tan skin, plastic surgery, shoulder pads, corset) - color - volume & proportion - shape & structure - surface design - texture - scent |
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Body supplement |
essentially our clothes & accessories - enclose the body, attached directly, held by wearer, held for wearer by someone else |
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Types of enclosures |
- wrapped: scarf - suspended: poncho - preshaped: tailored - combination: preshaping & suspension |
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Type of attachments |
- inserted: earrings - adhered: false eyelashes - hand held: umbrella - pressure fastened: prince-nez glasses |
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Lay terminology |
common vocabulary words we normally use to communicate |
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Scientific terminology |
words & phrases that more accurately name dress items and practices (designed to avoid confusion with lay)
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Indigenous terminology |
words or phrases in the language of the native wearers of the body modifications/supplements |
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Dress |
- any body covering, attachment or treatment; essentially our appearance - one of the most powerful mediums of expression devised by humans - first motivations from aesthetics |
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Fashion |
- a socio-cultural phenomenon in which a preference is shared for a particular style, only lasts a relatively short time - western fashion system emerges 14th century Italy |
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Additional concepts related to fashion |
- style - trend - taste - change - novelty |
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Why dress? |
- protection, beautification, nonverbal communication - modesty - why we cover certain parts of our body |
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Classification of dress: why do we do this? |
1. it is organized way to categorize dress 2. helps remove cultural bias when studying a culture other than your own 3. can give new perspective on your own culture 4. helps to standardize terminology |
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Culture |
human-made material items and patterns of thoughts, feelings and behavior shared by members of a group who regularly interact with one another - 2 components: material & nonmaterial |
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Material culture |
can be very interconnected to belief systems in complex ways - wedding & funeral |
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Enculturation |
learning the cultural ways that are taught to members of the group in which they are raised |
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Acculturation |
the process of learning a new culture, for example, migrating to a new country |
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Microcultures
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large societies are composed of many smaller sections or groups (sometimes called subcultures) ex: midwestern cowboys in American culture |
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Globalization
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- process that integrates many separate societies and cultural groups of the world into a single socially interacting structure - modern globalization begins in the 15th century with the age of exploration |
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Diaspora |
members of a singular cultural community who have spread to many places around the world outside of their original place of origin through voluntary and forced migration |
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Cultural authentication |
process of adopting foreign cultural items and making them your own |
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Cultural appropriation |
defined as members of a dominant group exploiting the culture of less privileged groups - often with little understanding of the latter's history experience and tradition |
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Colonialism |
age of exploration establishment of a colony in one territory by a political power from another territory, and the subsequent maintenance, expansion and exploitation of that colony the term is also used to describe a set of unequal relationships between the colonial power and the colony and often between colonists and indigenous peoples |
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Ethnocentrism |
the expression in actions or judgements of a particular cultural viewpoint as a superior to another |
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Eurocentrism |
the belief that European way of behaving and belief systems are superior |
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Ethnic dress or "world dress" |
dress of particular culture - traditional/ceremonial situations that fall outside of the scope of the Western fashion system the way group members dress to identify with culture/belonging (traditional Hmong clothes) |
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Ethnicity
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relates to the idea of tradition; word refers to the heritage of a group of people with a common cultural background, which can include their dress |
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Experimental archaeology |
field study which attempts to generate and test archaeological hypotheses, usually be replicating or approximating the feasibility of ancient cultures performing various tasks or feats
recreate something from the past (reconstruction of mantle found in Thorsberg Moore) |
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Archaeological evidence |
things found underground/underwater |
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Bias |
the natural distortion that occurs in written descriptions as a result of the writer's personal perspective |
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Analytical writing |
commonly required in academic writing to show relationships between pieces of information. It is used to compare and contrast, assess and evaluate |
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Satire |
the use of humor, irony, exaggeration, or ridicule to expose and criticize people's stupidity or vices, particularly in the context of contemporary politics and other topical issues (King Louis XIV) |
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Caricature |
a picture, description, or imitation of a person or thing in which certain striking characteristics are exaggerated in order to create a comic or grotesque effect |
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Artifact |
extant items |
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Costume plate |
print culture, history |
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Fashion plate |
early fashion magazines |
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Visual culture (visual representations) |
drawn, painted, sculpted and photographed (after c. 1838) |
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Prescriptions |
tells you what to do |
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Proscriptions |
tells you what not to do |
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Dress reform |
dress reformers slowly changed the direction of modern dress - Victorian dress reform was an objective of the Victorian dress reform movement, comprising carious reformers who proposed, designed, and wore clothing considered more practical & comfortable than the fashions of the time - Going against mainstream fashion |
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Acclimatization |
the long term physiological adaption that may take months or years...can become genetic adaptation |
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Phenotypes |
physical apparent characteristics such as skin color, eye & hair color, body type |
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Genetic adaptation |
changes occur to gene pools as those individuals that are best adapted to the habitat, live and reproduce to the next generation - also natural selection |
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Gene pool |
total complements of genes shared by potential reproductive members of a population |
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Cultural adaptation |
our capacity for cultural adaptation allows for our migration into varied climates etc. |
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Race |
socially constructed - the classification of humans into groups based on physical traits, ancestry etc. |
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Social Darwinism
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the theory that individuals, groups and peoples are subject to the same Darwinian laws of natural selections as plants and animals. Used to justify political conservatism, imperialism and racism and to discourage intervention and reform - Darwin's theory of evolution provided one explanation of cultural diversity - Dress was used to secure a society's position along the evolutionary track - Justified the colonial attitude of the euroamerican to other people of the world - The notions of social darwinism affected the evaluations of dress & technology of other cultures |
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Endomorphic |
rounded with prominent abdomen |
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Mesomorphic |
large boned & muscular |
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Ectomorphic |
linear & slender |
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Cline |
a continuum with an infinite number of gradations from one extreme to the other |
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Acclimation |
slightly longer-term (body) adjustments occurring over the space of one or a few days |
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7 clothing zones |
- the minimum - the hot, dry desert - 1 layer - 2 layer - 3 layer - 4 layer maximum - activity balance zone |
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Physiological adaptations |
involve short-term or long-term changes in individuals in response to a physical environment |
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Habituation |
small immediate physiological adjustments the body makes to minor changes in temperature or oxygen content in the air |
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Dandy |
a many unduly? devoted to style, neatness and fashion in dress & appearance |
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Modern dandies |
Hamish Bowles Andre 3000 |