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56 Cards in this Set

  • Front
  • Back

Body modification

temporary or permanent alterations made to the body (hair color, tan skin, plastic surgery, shoulder pads, corset)




- color


- volume & proportion


- shape & structure


- surface design


- texture


- scent

Body supplement

essentially our clothes & accessories


- enclose the body, attached directly, held by wearer, held for wearer by someone else



Types of enclosures

- wrapped: scarf


- suspended: poncho


- preshaped: tailored


- combination: preshaping & suspension

Type of attachments

- inserted: earrings


- adhered: false eyelashes


- hand held: umbrella


- pressure fastened: prince-nez glasses

Lay terminology

common vocabulary words we normally use to communicate

Scientific terminology

words & phrases that more accurately name dress items and practices (designed to avoid confusion with lay)


Indigenous terminology

words or phrases in the language of the native wearers of the body modifications/supplements

Dress

- any body covering, attachment or treatment; essentially our appearance


- one of the most powerful mediums of expression devised by humans


- first motivations from aesthetics

Fashion

- a socio-cultural phenomenon in which a preference is shared for a particular style, only lasts a relatively short time


- western fashion system emerges 14th century Italy

Additional concepts related to fashion

- style


- trend


- taste


- change


- novelty

Why dress?

- protection, beautification, nonverbal communication


- modesty - why we cover certain parts of our body

Classification of dress: why do we do this?

1. it is organized way to categorize dress


2. helps remove cultural bias when studying a culture other than your own


3. can give new perspective on your own culture


4. helps to standardize terminology

Culture

human-made material items and patterns of thoughts, feelings and behavior shared by members of a group who regularly interact with one another


- 2 components: material & nonmaterial

Material culture

can be very interconnected to belief systems in complex ways


- wedding & funeral

Enculturation

learning the cultural ways that are taught to members of the group in which they are raised

Acculturation

the process of learning a new culture, for example, migrating to a new country

Microcultures

large societies are composed of many smaller sections or groups (sometimes called subcultures)


ex: midwestern cowboys in American culture

Globalization

- process that integrates many separate societies and cultural groups of the world into a single socially interacting structure


- modern globalization begins in the 15th century with the age of exploration

Diaspora

members of a singular cultural community who have spread to many places around the world outside of their original place of origin through voluntary and forced migration

Cultural authentication

process of adopting foreign cultural items and making them your own

Cultural appropriation

defined as members of a dominant group exploiting the culture of less privileged groups - often with little understanding of the latter's history experience and tradition

Colonialism

age of exploration




establishment of a colony in one territory by a political power from another territory, and the subsequent maintenance, expansion and exploitation of that colony




the term is also used to describe a set of unequal relationships between the colonial power and the colony and often between colonists and indigenous peoples

Ethnocentrism

the expression in actions or judgements of a particular cultural viewpoint as a superior to another

Eurocentrism

the belief that European way of behaving and belief systems are superior

Ethnic dress or "world dress"

dress of particular culture - traditional/ceremonial situations that fall outside of the scope of the Western fashion system




the way group members dress to identify with culture/belonging (traditional Hmong clothes)

Ethnicity

relates to the idea of tradition; word refers to the heritage of a group of people with a common cultural background, which can include their dress

Experimental archaeology

field study which attempts to generate and test archaeological hypotheses, usually be replicating or approximating the feasibility of ancient cultures performing various tasks or feats



recreate something from the past (reconstruction of mantle found in Thorsberg Moore)

Archaeological evidence

things found underground/underwater

Bias

the natural distortion that occurs in written descriptions as a result of the writer's personal perspective

Analytical writing

commonly required in academic writing to show relationships between pieces of information. It is used to compare and contrast, assess and evaluate

Satire

the use of humor, irony, exaggeration, or ridicule to expose and criticize people's stupidity or vices, particularly in the context of contemporary politics and other topical issues (King Louis XIV)

Caricature

a picture, description, or imitation of a person or thing in which certain striking characteristics are exaggerated in order to create a comic or grotesque effect

Artifact

extant items

Costume plate

print culture, history

Fashion plate

early fashion magazines

Visual culture (visual representations)

drawn, painted, sculpted and photographed (after c. 1838)

Prescriptions

tells you what to do

Proscriptions

tells you what not to do

Dress reform

dress reformers slowly changed the direction of modern dress




- Victorian dress reform was an objective of the Victorian dress reform movement, comprising carious reformers who proposed, designed, and wore clothing considered more practical & comfortable than the fashions of the time


- Going against mainstream fashion

Acclimatization

the long term physiological adaption that may take months or years...can become genetic adaptation

Phenotypes

physical apparent characteristics such as skin color, eye & hair color, body type

Genetic adaptation

changes occur to gene pools as those individuals that are best adapted to the habitat, live and reproduce to the next generation - also natural selection

Gene pool

total complements of genes shared by potential reproductive members of a population

Cultural adaptation

our capacity for cultural adaptation allows for our migration into varied climates etc.

Race

socially constructed - the classification of humans into groups based on physical traits, ancestry etc.

Social Darwinism

the theory that individuals, groups and peoples are subject to the same Darwinian laws of natural selections as plants and animals. Used to justify political conservatism, imperialism and racism and to discourage intervention and reform




- Darwin's theory of evolution provided one explanation of cultural diversity


- Dress was used to secure a society's position along the evolutionary track


- Justified the colonial attitude of the euroamerican to other people of the world


- The notions of social darwinism affected the evaluations of dress & technology of other cultures

Endomorphic

rounded with prominent abdomen

Mesomorphic

large boned & muscular

Ectomorphic

linear & slender

Cline

a continuum with an infinite number of gradations from one extreme to the other

Acclimation

slightly longer-term (body) adjustments occurring over the space of one or a few days

7 clothing zones

- the minimum


- the hot, dry desert


- 1 layer


- 2 layer


- 3 layer


- 4 layer maximum


- activity balance zone

Physiological adaptations

involve short-term or long-term changes in individuals in response to a physical environment

Habituation

small immediate physiological adjustments the body makes to minor changes in temperature or oxygen content in the air

Dandy

a many unduly? devoted to style, neatness and fashion in dress & appearance

Modern dandies

Hamish Bowles


Andre 3000