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16 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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Name the 3 parts of the hair structure.
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Structure
Each strand of hair has three main components: Cuticle The cuticle is the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping, protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy flat cuticle layer promotes strength and shine. Cortex The cortex is the center part of the hair makes up most of the hair shaft. It gives the hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin that lie along the length of the hair. Artificial or oxidative pigments are developed/oxidized (transformed into colored dye molecules) in the cortex with permanent and demi-permanent hair color. Medulla The medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of the human hair. It has no known function. Not all hair contains a medulla. |
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What is texture?
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Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually examining it, texture tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own.
Texture is generally referred to as fine, medium, and coarse. |
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Describe Fine Hair Texture
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Fine:
• Can feel silky, soft • Is made up of melanin granules that are grouped together tightly and can impact the hair color absorption rate for a quicker uptake • May not contain the medulla layer |
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Describe Medium Hair Texture
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Medium:
• Can feel like cotton • Has an average response to color • this is the normal hair type most commonly found. • Contains all three layers (medulla, cortex, and cuticle) |
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Describe CoarseHair Texture
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Coarse:
• Can feel like wool, rough, or wiry • Usually has scales on the cuticle that are closely overlapped and raised away from the hair shaft that allow coarse hair to readily absorb water and chemicals, such as hair color, when applied. • Slower absorption rate • Contains all three layers (medulla, cortex, and cuticle) |
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What is density?
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The density of the hair is determined by the numbers of active hair follicles per square inch on the scalp. It can influence the look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.
Density is usually referred to as: •light/fine •medium/normal •thick/heavy |
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What is Porosity?
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Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and hold liquids.
• Some factors that contribute to hair’s porosity include past chemical services, environmental, mechanical (hot tools) and medical damage. • Accurately judging the hair’s porosity is critical for color selection and level of developer. • All hair color durability is related to the porosity of the hair. Porosity is usually described as low, average, or high. •Low: May cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate •Average: Absorbs color at a normal rate •High: Absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade more readily. |
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Name the 2 types of Pigments?
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Pigment Types
Hair color is comprised of either direct dyes, indirect dyes, or a combination of the two Direct Dyes: •Does not require mixing with an oxidative agent like Hydrogen Peroxide •Color that you can see as it is applied to the hair •Typically larger molecules that remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft Indirect Dyes •Also called oxidation or intermediate dyes •They require an oxidative agent for development of the pigments •Pigments oxidize within the cortex of the hair shaft •Can lift and deposit in a single process as a result of the chemical reaction created with the oxidative |
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What is pH?
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pH (potential hydrogen): It is the range of numbers expressing the relative acidity or alkalinity of a solution. In general, pH values range from 0 to 14. The pH of a neutral solution, one that is neither acidic nor alkaline, is 7. Acidic solutions have pH values below 7. Alkaline, or basic, solutions have pH values above 7.
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What is the Law of Color?
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The Law of color
•The law of color breaks down color into three major categories: •Primary – Pure colors that cannot be created by mixing together any color •Secondary – Created when mixing two primary colors in equal portions •Tertiary (Intermediate) – Created when mixing equal portions of a primary and a coordinating secondary |
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Name the Primary Colors.
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Yellow, Red and Blue
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Name the secondary colors.
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Secondary colors are made by mixing two primary colors.
•RED + BLUE = VIOLET •BLUE + YELLOW = GREEN •YELLOW + RED = ORANGE |
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What are the tertiary colors?
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Tertiary colors are made by mixing a primary color with a secondary color.
•Red + Violet = Red Violet •Red + Orange = Red Orange •Yellow + Orange = Yellow Orange •Yellow + Green = Yellow Green •Blue + Green = Blue Green •Blue + Violet = Blue Violet |
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What are complimentary colors?
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The colors found on the opposite side of the color wheel are referred to as complementary colors. In hair color, they have several important functions:
•They neutralize or cancel out the other one when they are mixed together, and produce a neutral color, such as dark gray or brown •They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example, a blue-based color will eliminate unwanted orange tones. •They also complement each other when placed side by side. |
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What tones are found in hair color?
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Warm colors generally run on the red to yellow range.
Cool colors typically run on the green to blue range. |
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What is underlying pigment?
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•Natural underlying pigment refers to the exposed undertones, which appear anytime 2 or more levels of lift is caused in natural hair and affects the outcome of a color service
•Often necessary to add a neutralizing/controlling color into a formulation to insure control of unwanted underlying pigment •For example: Natural Level 5 Desired level 8 with a Cool tone Lifting 3 levels will expose a Yellow/gold tone A complimentary tone will need to be added to neutralize the unwanted yellow/gold tone to make it a cool blonde |
