<Essofocean8Ed> Chapter 10: The Coast: Beaches And Shoreline Processes

Front 1

what percentage of the US population lives within easy access of the coast

Back 1

80%

Front 2

zone lying between lowest low tide and highest height of storm wave disturbance

Back 2

shore

Front 3

region extending inland from high boundary of shore to places where ocean-related features can be found

Back 3

coast

Front 4

boundary between shore and coast

Back 4

coastline

Front 5

division of shore only touched by water during storms or abnormally high water

Back 5

backshore

Front 6

division of shore in the intertidal zone

Back 6

foreshore

Front 7

edge of the water

Back 7

shoreline

Front 8

area extending from shore edge to the low tide breaker line (bottom is touched by waves)

Back 8

nearshore

Front 9

area beyond low tide breaker line

Back 9

offshore

Front 10

line where the waves just touch the bottom

Back 10

breaker line

Front 11

entire active area of sediments affected by breakers, or a deposit in the shore area

Back 11

beach

Front 12

flat, wave-eroded surface

Back 12

wave-cut bench

Front 13

raised section of gently-sloping sand leading to shoreline

Back 13

berm

Front 14

steep bank at the seaward edge of a berm

Back 14

scarp

Front 15

wet, sloping surface leading to the shoreline

Back 15

beach face

Front 16

sand bars that are parallel to the coast and cause waves to break early

Back 16

longshore bars

Front 17

depressed region separating a sand bar from the beach face

Back 17

longshore trough

Front 18

water rushing up the beach from breaking waves

Back 18

swash

Front 19

water that drains down the beach

Back 19

backwash

Front 20

does more swash soak into the beach under light or heavy wave activity

Back 20

light wave activity

Front 21

in light wave activity, are berms eroded or deposited; why

Back 21

deposited; low backwash due to soaking by sand

Front 22

in heavy wave activity, are longshore bars eroded or deposited; why

Back 22

deposited; backwash takes sand to edge of breakers

Front 23

beach with wide berm, steep beach face, no longshore bar due to light wave activity

Back 23

summertime beach

Front 24

beach with a thin berm, flattend beach face, and longshore bar due to heavy wave activity

Back 24

wintertime beach

Front 25

zigzag movement of water (swash+backwash) along the shore; max speed

Back 25

longshore current; 4 km/h

Front 26

movement of sediment parallel to the shore within the surf zone

Back 26

longshore drift (longshore transport)

Front 27

which direction do longshore currents on the US Atlantic and Pacific coasts flow

Back 27

southward

Front 28

cliffs that form after waves cut a notch under them and much of the rock collapses

Back 28

wave-cut cliff

Front 29

opening under a headland

Back 29

sea arch

Front 30

large area eroded on a headland but not broken through

Back 30

sea cave

Front 31

tall columns of rock that are the remains of an eroded headland

Back 31

sea stack

Front 32

gently sloping feature resulting from a wave-cut bench lifting upward or falling sea level

Back 32

marine terrace

Front 33

movement of water away from the beach along the bottom starting as backwash

Back 33

sheet flow

Front 34

narrow, turbulent movement of water away from shore that goes up to 8 km/h

Back 34

rip current

Front 35

linear ridge of sediment extending in direction of longshore drift starting from land

Back 35

spit

Front 36

rapid motion of water along the bottom away from shore that is a continuation of backwash

Back 36

undertow

Front 37

which way does the end of a spit curve

Back 37

into a bay due to currents

Front 38

ridge inhibiting water flow in or out of a bay (extension of a spit)

Back 38

bay barrier

Front 39

sand ridge connecting an island to the mainland or two islands to each other

Back 39

tombolo

Front 40

extremely long offshore deposits of sand parallel to the coast

Back 40

barrier islands

Front 41

water separating a barrier island from the mainland

Back 41

lagoon

Front 42

deposits of sand on land caused by winds blowing sand

Back 42

dunes

Front 43

are barrier islands moving landward or seaward due to sea level rise on the Atlantic coast

Back 43

landward

Front 44

deposit of sediments at the mouth of a river

Back 44

delta

Front 45

branching channels that deposit sediments on a delta

Back 45

distributaries

Front 46

narrowing of beach due to erosion and disruption by man-made structures

Back 46

beach starvation

Front 47

collective set including a river, beach, and submarine canyon

Back 47

beach compartment

Front 48

shoreline rising above sea level

Back 48

emergent/emerging coastline/shoreline

Front 49

shoreline dropping below sea level

Back 49

submergent/submerging coastline/shoreline

Front 50

deposits of sediment well above sea level

Back 50

stranded beach deposits

Front 51

a drowned river valley

Back 51

ria

Front 52

which US coast is submerging; why?

Back 52

Atlantic coast; crust cooling and thermal contraction

Front 53

which US coast is emerging; why?

Back 53

Pacific coast; tectonic activity

Front 54

worldwide change in sea level due to change in seawater volume or ocean capacity

Back 54

eustatic change

Front 55

is sea level higher or lower during an ice age

Back 55

lower

Front 56

span of geologic time which is the last ice age, which ended 10,000 years ago

Back 56

Pleistocene Epoch

Front 57

how much does sea level change for each 1 degree Celsius change in average ocean temperature

Back 57

2 m

Front 58

glacial deposits of sediment left behind after the glaciers melted

Back 58

moraines

Front 59

structures built to protect a coast from erosion

Back 59

hard stabilization

Front 60

barriers perpendicular to the coastline designed to trap sediment moving in longshore drift

Back 60

groin

Front 61

sturdy blocks of material commonly used in groins

Back 61

rip-rap

Front 62

hard stabilization built perpendicular to the shoreline designed to protect a harbor entrance from waves

Back 62

jetty

Front 63

barriers built parallel to the shoreline in order to decrease wave energy hitting shore

Back 63

breakwater

Front 64

hard stabilization landward of the berm and parallel to shore designed to armor coast

Back 64

seawall

Front 65

addition of sand to a beach to replace lost sediment

Back 65

beach nourishment/replenishment

Front 66

where is the tallest lighthouse in the US

Back 66

Cape Hatteras, North Carolina

Front 67

how far was the Cape Hatteras lighthouse moved

Back 67

884 m