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122 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
Fabric Structure
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arrangement of textile components to form a single sheet of material
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Examples of fabric structures
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weaves, knits, non-wovens, quilts laminates
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Multiple componenet Aggregates
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quilts laminates
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Weaving
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the interlacing of yarns at right angles to each other
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Loom
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mechanical device used to form a textile structure by weaving
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4 Requirements for loom operation
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1)Must hold warp yarn under tension
2)Must hold warp yarn so filling yarn can be inserted 3)Must transport filling yarn across warp yarns 4)Must pack the filling and warp yarns together |
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Fabric Structure Sheets
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Multiple sheets may be combined
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Warp Beam
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Holds warp yarns and governs width of fabric
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Heddle
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Warp yarns threaded through eye of heddle
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Reed
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Packs filling and warp yarns together
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Harness
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controls raising and lowering of heddles
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Shuttle
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Transports filling yarns across warp yarns
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Cloth Beam
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Holds fabric asit is woven
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Weaving Steps:
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Shedding
Picking Beating Taking up |
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Shedding
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raises and lowers harness to make opening in warp yarns called shed
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Picking
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transporting of filling yarns across warp yarns through shed
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Beating
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process of forcing filling yarns into the warp yarns
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Taking up
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process of rolling woven cloth on the cloth beam
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Shuttle Loom
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-traditional loom carrier called the shuttle
-produces closed selvage on both sides of fabric |
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Shuttleless Loom
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- modern
- use projectiles to carry filling yarn across warp - at least one or both selvages are fringed |
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Advantages of Shuttless Loom
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-Speed
-Less noise -Easy to introduce additional yarns into weave |
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Selvage
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finished lengthwise edges of a woven structure
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Reinforce Selvages by:
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Tucking
Twisting in figure eight Heat Setting |
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Warp Yarns
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Vertical
-"ends" |
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Filling Yarns
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Horizontal
- "picks" or "weft" |
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Warp yarns are
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STRONGER than filling yarns
-less likely to stretch and more likely to shrink |
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Yarn Direction ex:
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64 x 60
warp filling Count= TOTAL = 124 |
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More Warp =
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More Strength
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More Filling =
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more decorative, compact
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3 Types of Basic Weave
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Plain, Twill, Satin
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Lengthwise Grain
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-follows warp yarns
-most common - "straight of grain" |
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Crosswise Grain
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-follows filling yarns
- cut costs -gives design or color |
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The Bias
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does not line up with yarn
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True Bias
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-45 degree angle from selvage
-diagonal |
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Off Grain
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Other directions across cloth that do not follow the direction of a yarn
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Cloth, Fabric, thread Count
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number of warp and filling yarns per square inch
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Higher the cloth count
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more closely woven the fabric
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Low Thread Count Fabric Ex:
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Crinoline
Buckram Cheese Cloth (Scrim) Gauze |
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Balance of cloth
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proportion of warp to filling yarns
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Good balance=
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not more than 10 yd. difference in warp and filling directions
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Usually higher proportion of
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warp than filling yarns
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Plain Weave
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-simplest
-cheapest -most common - 1/1 checkerboard effect |
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Plain Weave Fabrics
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Chiffon
Osnaburg Muslin Batiste Crinoline Organdy Percale Voile |
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Basket Weave
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-variation of plain
-grouping warp and filling -balanced or unbalanced |
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Most Common Basket Weave
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Over 2, Under 2
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Balanced Basket Weave
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4 x4
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Unbalanced Basket Weave
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2 x 1
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Basket Weave Fabrics
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Aida Cloth
Canvas Oxford Chambray Monks Cloth |
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Rib Weave
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-varies SIZES of warp and filling yarn
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Warp Rib
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Down
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Weft or Filling Rib
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Across
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Calico or Print Cloth
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printed back faded, ink doesn't have time to penetrate through
-balanced plain (usually floral) (clothes) |
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Satin Lengthwise direction
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satin
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Satin Crosswise direction
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Sateen
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More Twist =
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LESS shine
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Rib weave fabrics
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Broad Cloth
Ottoman Bengaline Taffeta Poplin Pincord Dimity Faille Grosgrain Ribbon |
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Variation in plain weave
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-by color
-"yarn dyes" |
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Varying yarn color fabrics:
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Madras
Chambray Gingham Woven Plaids |
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Varing a Plain Weave by Yarn Type Fabrics:
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Crepe
Chiffon Wool Crepe Tweed Shantung Boucle Suiting Ratine Suiting Butcher Cloth |
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Ways to vary Plain Weave:
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-Yarn Type
-Color (application & finish) -Yarn Tension |
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Burlap
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-course & heavy
-single jute yarns -balanced plain |
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Crash
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-rough
-balanced plain -uneven yarns -linene or manuf. fibers |
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Dimity
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-unbalanced plain
-semi-sheer -lengthwise rib |
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Crossbar Dimity
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-made with heavier yarns in warp and filling directions
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Tweed
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-balanced plain
-heavy -novelty yarns |
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Hopsacking
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-heavy
-plain |
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Muslin
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-balanced plain
-cotton |
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Percale
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-balanced plain
-cotton -finer than muslin (bed sheets, clothes) |
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Batiste
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-combed
-balanced plain -light (handkerchiefs, nighties) |
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Gingham
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-combed or carded
-balanced plain (coats, dresses, children) |
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Chambray
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-balanced plain
-cotton (shirts, childrens) |
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Challis
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-balanced plain
-soft -staple (dresses) |
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Seersucker
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-woven w/slack tension
(sportswear, curtains) |
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Crepe
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-puckered, grainy
(apparel, furnishings) |
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Crepe (polyester)
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-plain
-text. filament yarns (women's apparel) |
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Voile
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-lightweight
-high twist -staple (dresses, blouse) |
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NinonG
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-open plain
-filament -3rd warp missing increase transparency (curtains, draperies, encasements) |
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Georgette
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-filament
-lightweight -balanced plain (apparel) |
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Chiffon
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-lusterous
-balanced plain (apparel) |
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Twill weave
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distinguished by diagonal lines on fabric called WALES
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twill weaves have
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floats
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Float
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portion of a yarn that lies exposed on the surface of the fabric
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Wale Direction defines
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Right-hand or left handed
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Right-Hand Twill
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Lower left to upper right
**Most Common |
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left handed
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lower right to upper left
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Wale Angle defines:
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Steep twill or Flatten twill
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Steep Twill
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-greater than 45 degrees
(almost vertical) |
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Flatten Twill
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(Reclining Twill)
-less than 45 degrees -almost horizontal |
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Kinds of Twill Weaves
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-Balanced Twill
-Warped Faced Twill -Filling Faced Twill -Herringbone Twill -Wavy Twill |
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Balanced Twill
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same # of warped and filling yarns showing on surface of fabric
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Warped Faced Twill
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predominance of warp yarns on surface
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Filling Faced Twill
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predominance of filling yarns on surface
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Herringbone Twill
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Twill reverses itself to form broken diagonal
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Wavy Twill
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direction of twill changes at intervals
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Twill Weaves are:
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-STRONGER & more Durable
-sheds soil -hard to clean -high twist - good resistance to abraison |
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Twill Weave Fabrics:
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herringbone
houndstooth Gabardine Glen Plaid Denim Surah Chino |
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Surah
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-lusterous
-light -fine twill lines -filament (scarves, ties, blouses) |
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Herringbone
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- broken balanced twill
-vertical right hand left hand (chevron pattern resembling fish) |
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Houndstooth Twill
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-pointed check effect
-2 diff. color yarns (sportswear, suiting, upholstery) |
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Denim
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-warp-faced twill
-yarn dyed -steep line "white- back) *Indigo most common (sportswear) |
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Gabardine
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-clear-finished
-warp-faced twill -twice warp than filling -diagonal lines NOT visible on wrong side of fabric (suits, sportswear) |
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Serge
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-clear finished
-diagonal wale -diagonal lines ARE visible on wrong side of fabric -worsted wool or wool blends (suiting) |
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Chino
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-steep twill
-2 ply combed yarns (trousers) |
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Glen Plaid
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-combines houndstooth and other twill patterns
-contrasting colors in warp and fill. directions (suits) |
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Ticking
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-warp-faced twill weave
-uneven colored stripe woven in it (mattress covers, upholstery fabrics) |
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Calvary Twill
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-smooth surfaced
-Staple -steep twill -double twill line with small space in between each line (apparel) |
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Whipcord
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-steep
-raised twill wale line (upholstery) |
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Satin Weave
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-long floats on sruface of fabric
-yarns interlaced at IRREGULAR pattern to avoid diagonal effect |
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long yarn floats
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add luster to satin weave fabrics
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When floats run in warp direction
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filament fabric is called satin
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When floats run in filling direction
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the staple fabric is called sateen
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Satin usually composed of
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filament yarns
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Sateen usually composed of
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combed staple yarns
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Satin weaves have lowest # of
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interlacings per unit area
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Satin Weaves good for
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ligning, but may wear out early due to exposed long float abrasion
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Satin Weave Fabrics
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Bridal Satin
Antique Satin Crepe-Back Satin Sateen Milium Satin |
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Satin
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-smooth
-lusterous -warp-faced |
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Antique Satin
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-warped-faced
-simple warp, complex slub, uneven filling yarns -more body than shantung (draperies) |
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Crepe-Back Satin
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-reversible satin
(dresses) |
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Charmeuse
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-smooth & lusterous
-filament -warped-faced (evening dresses, lingere) |
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Sateen
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-combed cotton
-filling or warped faced -lusterous face (dresses, bedspreads) |
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Milium
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-filling or warped face
-lusterous -aluminum bonding on back -heat retention (winter coats, cold climates) |