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84 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
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emollients |
fatty materials used to lubricate and moisturize the face |
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fatty acid |
lubricant ingredient derived from plant oils or animal fats |
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fatty alcohol |
fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen |
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fatty esters |
produced from fatty acids and fatty alcohols |
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examples of silicones |
dimethicone cyclomethicone phenyl trimethicone |
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surfactants |
category of ingredients that reduce the surface tension between the skin and the product |
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main type of surfactant used in cleansing agent |
detergent |
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chelating agent |
is added to products to improve the efficiency of a preservative. they break down the wall of bacteria. |
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certified colors |
metal salts |
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lakes |
insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material |
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mechanical exfoliation |
physically scrape dead cells from the skins surface |
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one way to chemically exfoliate |
alpha hydroxy acids |
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examples of enzymes used to exfoliate |
papain, bromelain, pancreatin |
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tyrosinase |
converts tyrosine into melanin |
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liposomes |
closed lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients and target delivery to specific areas and control release |
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polymer |
delivery system that releases substances into the skins surface at a microscopically controlled rate. |
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proper name for microsponges |
polymer |
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polyglucans |
are hydrophilic. they help preserve and protect collagen and elastin |
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beta-glucans |
ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen |
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Tissue Respitory Factor (TRF) |
is derived from yeast cells and functions as an anti inflammatory and moisturizing ingredient |
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glycoproteins are derived from |
yeast cells |
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peptides |
chains of amino acids used in skin care products to produce change in the appearance of the skin |
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keratolytic |
agent that causes sloughing of skin cells |
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examples of antioxidants |
vitamins c and e alphalipoic acid idebenone coenzyme Q-10 |
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two types of sunscreen |
chemical physical |
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how chemical sunscreens work |
absorb ultraviolet rays |
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how physical sunscreens work |
reflect and scatter uv rays |
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FDA regulates cosmetics in terms of... |
safety, labels, claims |
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aromatherapy treats the |
mind, body, spirt |
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antioxidants |
neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals |
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how do alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids work |
loosening the bond between the cells in the epidermis |
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how do enzymes exfoliate the skin |
dissolve keratin proteins on the surface of the skin to make it softer, smoother, and help maintain hydration |
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common lightening agents |
hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutus, vit c, licorice root, bearberry, green tea extract, alpha hydroxy, beta hydroxy |
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what are three types of ingredient delivery systems |
vehicles, liposomes (closed lipid bilayer spheres), polymers (number of small molecules) |
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how do beta-glucans and polyglucans benefit the skin? |
enhance the skin's defense mechanism and stimulate cell metabolism. polyglucan is hydrophilic. beta glucans stimulate formation of collagen |
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how do antioxidants help the skin |
they neutralize the damaging effects of free radicals and help skin cope with damaging effects of the environment |
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describe a free radical |
aggressive and unstable oxygen containing molecules. they have lost an electron and need to steal from other molecules. |
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what is the benefit of vitamin c as an oxidant |
strengthens white blood cells and immune system |
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what is the benefit of alpha lipoid acid |
increases cellular metabolism and the effects of other antioxidants. anti-inflamatory, reduces redness |
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what is benefit CoQ10? |
protects and revitalizes skin cells. seems to fortify skin's immune function and activate metabolic functions |
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three types of organic chemical sunscreens |
octinoxate, octisalate, oxbenzone |
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two types of inorganic physical sunscreens |
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide |
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petroleum jelly |
occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing |
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alcohol |
antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents |
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ceramides |
glycolipid materials that are a natural part of skin's intercellular matrix and barrier function |
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urea |
properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances and anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin's surface and helps maintain healthy skin. |
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lanolin |
an emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water absorption capabilities |
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peptides |
chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen and improve skin's firmness; larger chains are called polypeptides |
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methylparaben |
one of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic |
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collagen |
fibrous, connective tissue made from protein; found in the reticular layer of the dermis; gives skin its firmness; topically, a large, long-chain molecular protein that lies on the top of the skin and binds water; derived from the placentas of cows or other sources |
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propylene glycol |
a humectant often used in dry or sensitive skin moisturizers |
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squalene |
originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum; a lubricant and perfume fixative |
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hyaluronic acid |
hydrating fluids found in the skin; hydrophilic agent with water-binding properties |
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salicylic acid |
beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, wintergreen |
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ingredients for mature skin and rosacea |
green tea extract squalene oil- rich in a,d,e seaweed micronized vit e phanthenol vit b5 allantoin guarana- antiinflamatory and decongestant rose essential oil vitamin k- blood coagolation |
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purpose of cleansing gel |
dissolve more oil; neutral or slightly acidic ph. be careful it may dry skin |
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cleansing lotion |
water based emulsion for dry skin; does not strip oil |
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milk cleansing lotion |
used for dry skin |
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types of toners |
fresheners- lowest alcohol content; dry, mature, sensitive skin toners- normal and oily. mid alcohol content astringents- highest alcohol, oily and acne-prone skin |
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gommage |
enzyme peel; roll off dead skin cells |
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how do enzymes work |
digest only dead skin cells on surface |
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exfoliants |
mechanical and chemical ingredients that exfoliate the skin. |
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mechanical exfoliants |
polyethylene and jojoba beads ground nuts- almonds various seeds |
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chemical exfoliants |
aha and bha |
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alpha hydroxy acids- aha |
glycolic lactic malic citric tartaric |
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beta hydroxy- bha |
salicylic acid |
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glycoproteins |
yeast cell derivative, found to enhance immune response and cellular metabolism, boosts oxygen uptake in cell which allows skin to protect itself better |
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emollients |
oils, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones
eg. jojoba oil, olive oil, sesame, mineral oil |
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surfactants |
detergents, emulsifiers |
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gellants/ thickeners |
carbomer (polymers) |
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ph adjusters |
buffers |
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color agents |
certified noncertified exempt lakes |
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preservatives |
antioxidants antimicrobial chelating agents |
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sovents |
alcohol water |
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delivery systems |
vehicles liposomes polymers |
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glycerin |
formed by a decomposition of oils or fats, glycerin is an excellent skin softener and humectant as well as a very strong water binder |
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hyaluronic acid |
a hydrophillic agent with excellent water binding properties |
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lipids |
ingredient- fat or fat like substances; improves hydration and the barrier function of the skin |
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paraben |
preservative in cosmetic, pharmaceutical and food industries. provide antibacterial and anti fungal activity. |
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silicone |
oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin |
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sodium bicarbonate |
baking soda; an inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizer and a ph adjuster |
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sulfer |
reduces oil gland activity and dissolves the skins surface layer of dry, dead cells. this ingredient is commonly used in acne products. it can cause allergic skin reactions in sensitive people |
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titanium dioxide |
an inorganic sunscreen |
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vitamins |
organic compounds and essential nutrients |
