Cte 3763 Test 1

Front 1

Textile Industry

Back 1

-Fiber manufacturer

-Yarn spinners

-Fabric manufacturer

Converters:

-Dyers

-Printers

-Finishers

Front 2

Look at chart for Inside Vs. Outside Shops

Back 2

Terms:

•FullPackage Supplier – provides sourcing, fabric, pattern, cut,sew and finish

•CMT– requiresthe product developer to take ownership of fabric

•Jobber –acts as a middleman between manufacturers& retailers – (purchases excess goods & sells to retailers)

•FOB – contractoris responsible (owns) until goods are loaded onto transporting vehicle •LandedCost – includes total production costs +shipping and duty charges

Front 3

Vertical Integration

Back 3

-Significantly impacts a firm’s competition advantage in getting the right product to market at the right time and the right price

-When the SAME firm is responsible for multiple steps in the production or marketing of an apparel PRODUCT

Front 4

Horizontal Integration

Back 4

Prioritizes the acquisition or licensing of companies or brands that make or sell similar products to expand market penetration and reduce competition.

Front 5

Branded Apparel

Back 5

Created under a label and sold at wholesale for distribution to retailers who also carry other brands.

Can also be sold through the brand’s own specialty store, outlet store or online

Front 6

Private Label

Back 6

Products developed for exclusive distribution by a retailer – using their proprietary brand = Macy’s INC.OR* Store brands that offer products exclusively available in their stores:

Front 7

Examples of Retailers

Back 7

Macys, Saks 5th avenue, nordstrom, belk

Front 8

Whats different with retailers today?

Back 8

U.S. retailers suffer as shoppers go online

Front 9

International Trade

Back 9

The exchange of goods between nations and all the issues associated with that exchange

Front 10

Global Trade

Back 10

Import - to buy goods from another countryExport - to sell goods to another country

•Exporttrading companies - (ETCs)Serveas intermediaries between the producers ofthe goods and the buyer ofthe goods in the other countries

Front 11

Tariff - a tax on imported goods

Quota - an annual limit on the volume of a product that may be imported

Embargo – prohibition of importing a product

Back 11

Know Definitions

Front 12

Sourcing

Back 12

Sourcing production outside of the United States may be called –

-Offshore production

-Chapter 98 production

-Outsourcing

Front 13

World Trade Organization

Back 13

= (WTO)

Replaced General Agreement on Tariffs ad Trade (GATT) and Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC)

Fundamental of WTO - Promotion of free trade through reduction of tariff trade barriersEqualization of trade among countries

Front 14

Quality is built from conception

Back 14

-Fabrics

-Findings

-Country of Origin

-Fit

-Finishing

Front 15

Look at slide 24 for

Back 15

week 1

Front 16

Quality to cost Ratio

Back 16

How much you are willing to pay to have quality - measured against what they will give up in order to have a lower price

Front 17

2 Dimensions of Product Quality

Back 17

Physical Features and Performance Features

Front 18

What are the regulations of Apparel Labeling?

Back 18

-Textile Fiber Products Identification Act

-Wool Products Labeling Act

-Fur Products Labeling Act

-Silk Labeling RegulationCare

-Labeling RuleGuide for select Leather & Imitation Leather Products

-Feather and Down Product

Front 19

Consumer Product Safety Commission

Back 19

CPSC - Responsible for enforcing Flammable Fabrics Act

-Products found in violation of the law may be confiscated and destroyed

-All clothing must meet basic flammability requirements as determined by a standard test method

Front 20

RN Number

Back 20

RN stands for Registered Identification Number

Businesses can use this number on product labels in lieu of the company name

Front 21

Care Labeling Rule

Back 21

-Must state reasonable instructions about regular care

- Must be permanently legible and permanently attached

Front 22

International Care Labels

Back 22

1.Washtub

2. triangle

3. Square

4. Iron

5.Circle

Front 23

What are the physical features of fabric?

Back 23

-Fiber

-Yarn

-Fabric structure

-Color

-Applied design

- Hand

Front 24

Fabric Performance- the sum of its parts

Back 24

Durability, Appearance, Comfort

Front 25

Manufactured fiber

Back 25

-Regenerated cellulosic

-Synthetics

-Miscellaneous

Front 26

Natural Fibers

Back 26

-Protein fibers

-Cellulosic fibers

Front 27

Fiber Size

Back 27

greatly affects the HAND of the fabric

Front 28

Denier

Back 28

a direct system; the larger the #, the larger the fiber

Front 29

Tex

Back 29

For international use; based on metric system

Front 30

what are the three simple weave types?

Back 30

Plain, Twill, Satin

Front 31

Look at book for Knits and Wovens!!!!**

Back 31

*****

Front 32

Dyeing and Printing

Back 32

add color to undyed fabrics,called greige goods(pronouced “gray goods”)

Front 33

Dyestuffs or dyes

Back 33

are the liquid colorantsused to color fabrics.

Front 34

Dye Applications

Back 34

1. Fiber dyeing

-Solution dyeingor Dope dyeing

2. Yarn dyed

3. Piece dyed

4. Garment dyeing

Front 35

Printing

Back 35

The application of designs to the fabric using dyes or pigments

Front 36

Fabric Performance

Back 36

AESTHETIC & FUNCTIONAL performance of the end-product is achieved with selecting the correct fabric and includes:

-Garment design

-Intended use of garment

-Season of the year

-Fashion trends

-Consumer preferences

-Cost limitations

-Target market profile

Front 37

Luster, Opacity, Hand

Back 37

Transparent, Shiny look

Front 38

Effects of Hand

Back 38

drapability/flexibility – pliable/limp/fluid to firm/stiff/crispcompressibility - soft to hardextensibility or ease of stretching – stretchy to nonstretchyresilience – springy/alive to limpdensity – compact to loose/opensurface contour/texture - rough/coarse to smoothsurface friction/texture – harsh to slipperythermal character - cool to warm

Front 39

Functional Performance of Fabric

Back 39

1.DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

2.APPEARANCE

3.RETENTION

4.COMFORT

5.EASE OF CARE

6.SAFETY

7.STRENGTH

8.ABRASION

9.RESISTANCE

10.RESISTANCE TO DEGRADATION

Front 40

Dimensional Stability

Back 40

Relates to the ability to neither STRETCH nor SHRINK

Torque or skewness = fabric distortion that results when crosswise yarns of a fabric slant from one selvage to the other rather than lying at right angles to the selvage

Front 41

Comfort is

Back 41

Physiological & Psychological

Front 42

Look up four point grading system of the ASQ and the most common method to dye in localized area to produce patterns

Back 42

LOOK IT UP

Front 43

Know the Body Shapes Slide! refer to study guid

Back 43

****

Front 44

Size

Back 44

refers to a system that suggests to the consumer the suitability of a garment for their body dimensions

Front 45

Sizing

Back 45

the classifications of the dimensions of garments

•Sizingis the number one complaint for apparel

Front 46

Ease

Back 46

Ease- The difference between the body measurements of the intended wearer and the measurements of the clothing

Design Ease- The amount added to the body measurements plus the functional ease to make the garment look and function as desired

Functional Ease- Also known as wearing ease, have to be able to move and function.

Front 47

Vanity Sizing

look in book*

Back 47

**

Front 48

Metric and Sizing

Back 48

United States is the only country in the world that does not use the metric system.

Front 49

What is the ISO?

Back 49

The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) has developed a set of standards for sizing of garments.

Front 50

Look at slide on meaurements

Back 50

**

Front 51

Special Sizes

Back 51

Petites, Plus, Tall

Front 52

Types of mens suits

Back 52

Continental- Contemporary

Traditional- Classic

Athletic- Muscular

Front 53

What are the two measurements for mens pants?

Back 53

Waist and Inseam

Front 54

What is the rise?

Back 54

-measurement top of crotch to top of waist -Regular or Short

Front 55

5 elements of Fit

Back 55

Grain- length wise runs parallel to height

Ease- The amount of difference between the body measurements and the garment

Line- Structurally the garment conforms to the body line

Set- No unwanted wrinkles

Balance- the right and left sides of the body appear to be even

Front 56

Grain

Back 56

•Grain reflects the direction of thethreads •Lengthwise run parallel to height andcrosswise perpendicular

Hangs evenly and symmetrically on the body, parallel to the selvage

Front 57

Ease

Back 57

Ease is the amount of difference between the body measurements and garment

Front 58

what are the three types of ease?

Back 58

Functional, Design, and Negative

Front 59

Functional or Wearing Ease

Back 59

being able to move, for performance

Front 60

Design Ease

Back 60

Ease added by the designer to product the desired look, for aesthetic

Front 61

Negative Ease

Back 61

The garment is smaller than the body

Front 62

Line

Back 62

The structural lines of the garment conform to the lines of the body

Front 63

Form and fit Models

Back 63

Fit models are in the mid range or mid size of the consumer base

-Would be a size 8

Front 64

Grading

Back 64

Process of scaling the master size (sample size) of a garment to the range of sizes to be produced

Grade rules: The amounts added or subtracted from each measurement as it changes from one size to the next

•Pattern blocks may be graded intodifferent sizes utilizing this grading machine

•Automatedpattern grading using Lectra’s Modarispattern-gradingsoftware ]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]+++=HHHr����YYYY\\\]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]�

Front 65

what are the two types of grading?

Back 65

Circumference and Length

Front 66

Circumference Grading

Back 66

-How much the garments are to increase in overall girth from one size to the next

-The girth measurements are typically the most changed from one size to another size, as individuals tend to reflect more differences in girth than in height

Front 67

Length Grading

Back 67

•The measurement to be added to the lengthof garment pieces as sizes vary in height

•Critical to development of apparelin petite and tall size ranges

Front 68

Sample Process

Back 68

To determine if the styling and fit are truly developing as desired, sample garments are produced and placed on dress forms and/or models to evaluate the:

-Grain

-Set

-Line

-balance

Front 69

Standards

Back 69

1. Very Specific parameters for Quality

2. Materials and findings

Front 70

Perceptual Attributes

Back 70

Quality indicators

Front 71

Utilitarian

Back 71

-designed to be useful rather than attractive

-It Is a fact that US consumers will pay more for items that have an aesthetic value rather than a utilitarian value

Front 72

More on Standards on pgs 87-91

Back 72

Standards are the framework that provide decisions for businesses

Front 73

Sizing Specifications

Back 73

The trend toward outsourcing production means accurate measurement specifications are vital to ensure the desired size and shape are achieved

Front 74

Meaurements

Back 74

-Must be clearly communicated on specification sheets for patternmaking and sampling

-Sample garment measurements must be checked against the spec sheet before a garment goes into full production

Front 75

Different types of specifications

Back 75

Specifications- includes styling,methods,

Closed specifications- specific requirements for construction techniques

Open specifications- fast fashion

Front 76

Technical Flat

Back 76

-includes sketch of garment with details & written specifications

-Technical flat is another term for specificationdetailed measurements and specific construction methods

Front 77

Tolerance

Back 77

-anallowable variance from our specification

Front 78

Costing

Back 78

reflects overall quality of what we are developing

Front 79

Look up production specs

Back 79

**

Front 80

Stitch

Back 80

formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam or stitching

Front 81

Seam

Back 81

a line where two or more fabrics are joined or sewn together

Front 82

Stitching

Back 82

consists of a series of stitches, used to finish the edge of garment or decorative stitch

Front 83

Stitches

Back 83

Configurations of interlacing thread executed in specific repeated units

They are used to form rows that produce seams, finish an edge, or generate ornamentation

The majority of stitches are made on a lockstitch or chain-stitch machine

Commercialstitches in the ASTM system are divided into sixclasses based on complexity, configuration, andthe type of machine that is required to form the stitching

A three-digit number identifies each stitch class

The first number identifies the class andthe other digits identify a specific stitch type within that class

Front 84

Lockstitch Vs. Chainstitch

Back 84

-Lockstitchmachinesrely on interlocking threads Usesa bobbin

-Chainstitchmachinesrely on interlooping threadsUsesa looperthread (no bobbin)

Lockstitch- flatter and less bulky and more refined

The key to lockstitches are balance and tension, usually used for top stitching on better garments

Chainstitch- flexibility

Front 85

Extensibility

Back 85

Elongation or Stretch

Front 86

ASTM

Back 86

Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

The BEST AVAILABLE TOOL for identifying stitchesMilitary garments needed standards for seams = apparel industry adopted & uses today.

Front 87

Stitch Class 100

Back 87

A single Thread, it is simple and flexible and economical

Advantages: Economical and Blind Stitch

Disadvantages: Impression of Low Quality and lack of durability

- To easy to unravel for quality apparel

Front 88

Stitch Class 200

Back 88

Extremely expensive if done by hand

The machine version requires special machinery and is of very limited use

For decorative and special purpose

Front 89

Stitch Class 300

Back 89

Composed of a needle thread interlocked with a bobbin thread

Threads interlock between the pieces of the fabrics

Lock stitches do not unwravel easily, it is very strong

Most frequently used stitch in the production of apparel Balanced Tension

•Stitch 301 most commonly used stitch, tightest and most secure stitch,used for extensively for better garments

Uses the least amount of thread

Produces the flattest stitch

Gives best hand

Allows stitches to blend into the fabric surfaceWidely used to sew seams in woven- fabrics garment

Front 90

Disadvantages to 300 stitches

Back 90

-Not very extensible

-Rupture easily if stretched or strained

-Can cause more seam pucker

-More costly than chain stitches

Front 91

Class 300 Zig Zag Stitch

Back 91

Usedto attach elastic to underwear, swimwear, to attach lace

Usedfor very functional garments

Front 92

Class 300 Blindstitches

Back 92

Join plies of fabric with stitches that are imperceptible or nearly so from the outside of the fabric

Front 93

Class 400 Stitches

Back 93

More extensible than lockstitches

Easy to UNRAVEL in case garment needs alterations

Front 94

Advantages of 400 class stitches

Back 94

Significantly STRONGER & more DURABLE than 101 stitches

Achieves high production speed

Can Cause Seam Puckers

Front 95

100- Simple

200- not used that often, made using special machinery

300- most widely used stitch in the production of apparel

400- Chainstitch , it is prone to ravel

Back 95

***

Front 96

Disadvantages of class 400 stitches

Back 96

Easiest to unravel, uses more thread

Front 97

Class 500 Over edge stitch

Back 97

A multi thread chain stitch, it has the ability to stretch without breaking, thus making it the work horse of the knitwear industry Serged, over cast, merrow,

Pgs 346-350

It requires balanced tension

Front 98

Advantages of the Class 500 Stitch

Back 98

Most extensible of all stitch class because of their many interloopings

Works well with knitwear

Prevent edges from unraveling

Cause little seam pucker

Conserves fabric because of narrow seam allowance

Reduces labor

Front 99

Disadvantages of Class 500 Stitch

Back 99

Prone to seam grin

Cannot be pressed open to reduce bulk

Requires more thread

Can by uncomfortable

Front 100

Stitch Properties

Back 100

Specified as the number of stitches per inch (SPI) May be an indicator of quality

The more SPI = more time and thread = cost

SPI: Length, Witdh, Depth

Pg 352 read about stitch length

Pg 335 read and study about stitch tension

Pgs 352-353 read about reinforcement stitches

Front 101

Needle Heating

Back 101

-When sewing friction heats the needle, which then fuses or melts the finishes or fibers of the thread or fabric

-Causes fabric damage as a result of the friction of too-fast sewing speeds

Thermoplastic = heat sensitive

Front 102

Look at all images !!

Back 102

****