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55 Cards in this Set
- Front
- Back
ACID-BALANCED WAVES
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Not true acid waves, as they have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 and use glyceryl monthioglycolate (GMTG as the primary reducing agent. Acid-balanced waves process at room temperature, do not require the added heat of a hair dryer, process more quickly, and produce firmer curls than true acid waves.
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ALKALINE WAVES (OR COLD WAVES)
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Have a H between 9.0 and 9.6, use ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) as the reducing agent, and process at room temperature.
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AMINO ACIDS
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Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and nitrogen.
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AMMONIA-FREE WAVES
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Perms use alkanolamines instead of ammonia, and are popular because of their low odor.
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AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE
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Active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanents.
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BASE CREAM OR PROTECTIVE CREAM
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Oily cream used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing.
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BASE CONTROL
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Position of the rod in relation to its base section, determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
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BASE DIRECTION
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Angle at which the rod is positioned on the head (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally); also, the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
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BASE PLACEMENT
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The position of hte rod in relation to its base section, and is determined b the angle at which the hair is wrapped. Rods can be wrapped on base, half off base, or off base.
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BASE RELAXERS
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Relaxers that require the application of protective base cream to the entire scalp prior to the application of the relaxer.
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BASE SECTIONS
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Subsections of panels into which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size bases; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.
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BASIC PERM WRAP
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Perm wrap in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-size base; all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.
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BOOKEND WRAP
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Perm wrap in which one end paper is folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
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BRICKLAY PERM WRAP
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Perm wrap similar to actual technique of bricklaying; base sections are offset from each other row by row.
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CHEMICAL HAIR RELAXING
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Rearranges the structure of curly hair into a straighter or smoother form.
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CHEMICAL TEXTURE SERVICES
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Hair services that cause a chemical change that permanently alters the natural wave pattern of the hair.
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CONCAVE RODS
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Perm rods that have a smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends.
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CORTEX
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Middle layer of the hair, located directly beneath the cuticle layer. The cortex is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair.
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CROQUIGNOLE PERMS
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Perms in which the hair strands are wrapped at an angle perpendicular to the perm rod, in overlapping concentric layers.
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CURVATURE PERM WRAP
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Perm wrap in which partings and bases radiate throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head.
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DISULFIDE BONDS
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Chemical side bonds that are formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together. Disulfide bonds can only be broken by chemicals and cannot be broken by heat or water.
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DOUBLE FLAT WRAP
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Perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under, and one is placed over, the strand of hair being wrapped.
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DOUBLE-ROD (PIGGYBACK) TECHNIQUE
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Perm wrap in which two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.
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ENDOTHERMIC WAVES
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Perm activated by an outside heat source, usually a conventional hood-type hair dryer.
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END PAPERS OR END WRAPS
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Absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding hair on perm rods.
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EXOTHERMIC WAVES
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Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the waving solution and speeds up processing.
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GLYCERYL MONOTHIOGLYCOLATE (GMTG)
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Main active ingredient in true acid-balanced waving lotions.
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HALF OFF-BASE PLACEMENT
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Base control in which the hair is wrapped at an angle of 90 degrees (perpendicular) to its base section and the rod is positioned half off its base section.
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HYDROGEN BONDS
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Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by water, as in wet setting, or heat, as in thermal styling, and re-form as the hair dries or cools.
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HYDROXIDE NEUTRALIZATION
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The neutralization of hydroxide relaxers is an acid-alkali neutralization reaction that neutralizes (deactivates) the alkaline residues left in the hair by the hydroxide relaxer and lowers the pH of the hair and scalp. Hydroxide relaxer neutralization does not involve oxidation or rebuild disulfide bonds.
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HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
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Very strong alkalis with a pH over 12. The hydroxide ion is the active ingredient in all hydroxide relaxers.
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LANTHIONIZATION
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Process by which hydroxide relaxers permanently straighten hair; breaks the hair's disulfide bonds during processing and converts them to lanthionine bonds when the relaxer is rinsed from the hair.
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LOOP OR CIRCLE ROD
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Tool that is usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod.
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LOW-PH WAVES
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Perms that work at a low pH, and use sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites as an alternative to ammonium thioglycolate.
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MEDULLA
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Innermost layer of the hair and is often called the pith or core of the hair.
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METAL HYDROXIDE RELAXERS
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Ionic compounds formed by a mtal (sodium, potassium, or lithium) combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
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NO-BASE RELAXERS
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Relaxers that do not require application of a protective base cream.
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NORMALIZING LOTIONS
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Conditioners that restore the hair's natural pH after a hydroxide relaxer and prior to shampooing.
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OFF-BASE PLACEMENT
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Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle below perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned completely off its base section.
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ON-BASE PLACEMENT
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Base control in which the hair is wrapped at a 45 degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section and the rod is positioned on its base section.
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PEPTIDE BONDS OR END BONDS
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Chemical bonds that join amino acids together to form polypeptide chains.
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POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS
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Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.
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SALT BONDS
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Relatively weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges; easily broken by changes in pH, as in permanent waving, and re-form when the pH returns to normal.
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SIDE BONDS
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Disulfide, salt, and hydrogen bonds that cross-link polypeptide chains together. Side bonds are responsible for the elasticity and incredible strength of the hair.
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SINLGE FLAT WRAP
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Perm wrap that is similar to double flat wrap but uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the strand of hair being wrapped.
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SOFT BENDER RODS
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Tool about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter along the entire length. These soft foam rods have a stiff wire inside that permits them to be bent into almost any shape.
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SOFT CURL PERMANENT
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Combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods to make existing curl larger and looser.
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SPIRAL PERM WRAP
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Hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod, which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod, siliar to the grip on a tennis racket.
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STRAIGHT RODS
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Perm rods that are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area.
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THIOGLYCOLIC ACID
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Colorless liquid with a strong unpleasant odor; provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in permanent waving solutions.
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THIO NEUTRALIZATION
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Stops the action of a permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair in its new curly form.
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THIO RELAXERS
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Use the same ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) that is used in permanent waving, but at a higher concentration and a higher pH (above 10).
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THIO-FREE WAVES
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Perm that uses cysteamine or mercaptamine instead of ammonium thioglycolate as the primary reducing agent.
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TRUE ACID WAVES
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Have a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, require heat to process (endothermic), process more slowly than alkaline waves, and do not usually produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves.
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WEAVE TECHNIQUE
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Wrapping technique that uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.
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